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Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Macedonia, Albania, Kosovo

13 May

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 is the summary of my two-month trip to three of the Balkan countries: Macedonia, Albania, and Kosovo, during the summer of 2017 (June – July). The pace of traveling was slow, in accordance with the flexibility I had to go and stay wherever I wanted with my car.

Balkans Travel Planning

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – General Planning:

Travel Planning for the road trip through the Balkan Countries started a couple of months before the estimated departure. I couldn’t go anymore as I had planned in 2016 and I postponed the trip for one year. I used a Lonely Planet Guide for the southeastern Europe and the official tourism websites of Macedonia and Albania. I had names of places where I wanted to go and a vague idea of the order of the places I wanted to see. As I was going with my own car, I didn’t bother too much with the plans. I was flexible to go, stop, and stay wherever I wanted. I only searched for camping places on the ACSI Campings and Campercontact websites and saved some printscreens with the locations of some main campgrounds of the region.

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Fixed Plans:

– I had a rooftop cargo carrier from my sponsor CutiiAuto.ro 

– a few days before leaving Romania, I booked on Airbnb an apartment for the first four nights in Skopje (the capital of Macedonia

– I checked some accommodation on Booking and decided that the prices were pretty low in this region

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Intentions, but nothing fixed:

When I left for the Balkan Countries of Macedonia, Albania, and Kosovo, all I knew was that I wanted to go to some places but I hadn’t fixed dates for them:

– go throughout Macedonia for almost one month – arbitrary route: Skopje – Eastern Macedonia – Western Macedonia – Lake Ohrid

– cross from Macedonia to Albania somewhere near Lake Ohrid (there are two places where you can cross the border)

– stay in Albania for almost one month – arbitrary route from the South to the North of the country: from Sarandë, go along the Ionian and Adriatic Coast to Durës – Tirana – Shkodër

– try the three days round-trip through Komani Lake – trek from Valbonë to Theth for one day – come back to Shkodër

– go to Corfu Island for one week, probably with a ferry from Sarandë (Albania) – I dropped this plan because I decided to experience more the Albanian culture and lifestyle

– cross from Albania to Kosovo and follow the route Prizren – Peja – Prishtina and turn back to Skopje (Macedonia), from where I went home to Romania

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 - Macedonia, Albania, Kosovo

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Macedonia, Albania, Kosovo

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Final Result:

The final result of my trip through a couple of Balkan Countries, where I stayed for two months, is a series of 17 travel diaries (Macedonia, Albania, Kosovo). Enjoy your reading and let me know your opinion about the Balkan Countries. Which is your favorite country? Why?

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Macedonia (21 days – 3 weeks)

Balkans Countries Travel Planning 2017 - Macedonia

Balkans Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Macedonia

Skopje (the Balkan capital) and Mavrovo Region (9 days):
  • two days driving from Romania to Macedonia, crossing Bulgaria (via Bușteni – Calafat – Sofia – Kriva PalankaSkopje)
  • explored Skopje for two days: the new town and the old Turkish bazaar (the Čaršija)
  • round road trip to the lakes nearby Skopje: Kozjak, Matka, and Treska
  • road trip to Vodno Mountain; arrive on the shore of Mavrovo Lake
  • road trip from Mavrovo Lake to Lazaropole village, via Mavrovo – Galičnik – Mavrovo again – Radika Canyon – Sveti Jovan Bigorski Monastery – Jance – Lazaropole
  • explored Lazaropole village and returned to Skopje for one-working day

Skopje: Turkish bazaar and mountain scenery – Macedonia

The version in Romanian can be found at Capitala Balcanica Skopje si zona Mavrovo, Macedonia (I)

Skopje surroundings and Mavrovo region – Macedonia

The version in Romanian can be found at Capitala Balcanica Skopje si zona Mavrovo, Macedonia (II)

Eastern Macedonia (7 days):
  • road trip from Skopje to Kratovo, via Skopje – Staro Nagoricane – Kokino Megalithic Observatory – Kuklica (the Valley of Stone Dolls) – Kratovo (the town of towers and bridges)
  • road trip from Kratovo to Star Dojran, with a few detours to the monasteries of Lesnovo, Veljusa, and Vodocha – Strumica town – Star Dojran lake resort
  • relaxing day in Star Dojran, at Dojran Lake
  • road trip from Star Dojran to Prilep, with stops to the archaeological sites of Vardarski Rid (near Gevgelija) and Stobi (near Negotino) – meandered through Kavadarci wine region and Tikvesh Lake – Prilep
  • round road trip from Prilep to Zrze monastery – Krusevo mountain town – Varosh monastery – Treskavec former monastery
  • explored Prilep and Bitola, including the archaeological site from Heraklea Lyncestis
  • road trip from Bitola to Ohrid, via the shore of Prespa Lake – with stop in Brajcino mountain village

From Skopje to Prilep, passing Kratovo – Macedonia

The version in Romanian can be found at Manastiri si bazare prin estul Macedoniei (I)

From Prilep to Ohrid, passing Bitola – Macedonia

The version in Romanian can be found at Manastiri si bazare prin estul Macedoniei (II)

Western Macedonia (6 days):
  • explored Ohrid historic town for two days (the Christian part and the old Turkish bazaar)
  • road trip along Ohrid’s eastern shore, via Elshani – Peshtani – Gradiste (Bay of Bones) – Trpejca – Sveti Naum Monastery
  • road trip from Ohrid Lake to Prespa Lake, crossing Galičica Pass in the mountains; returned back to Ohrid Lake via Stenje – Resen – Ohrid – Struga – Kalistha – Radozhda
  • explored the cave churches in Radozhda and Kalistha
  • left Macedonia and crossed the Albanian border at Kjafasan; went to Korçë, via Pogradec

Exploring the Macedonian old town of Ohrid – Macedonia

The version in Romanian can be found at In jurul lacului Ohrid, Macedonia (I)

Exploring the surroundings of the Ohrid Lake – Macedonia

The version in Romanian can be found at In jurul lacului Ohrid, Macedonia (II)

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Albania (30 days – one month)

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 - Albania

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Albania

Crossing the mountains from Korçë to Gjirokastra (6 days)
  • explored Korçë for two days
  • awful road trip (almost 25 % off road) from Korçë to Gjirokaster, via Korçë – Boboshtice – Kamenicë tumulus – Ersekë – Leskovik – Çarshovë – Përmet – Këlcyrë – Gjirokaster
  • explored Gjirokastër old town for two days (Dunavat, Manalat, and Cfake neighborhoods + fortress)
  • road trip from Gjirokastër to Ksamil, via Syri i kalter (the Blue Eye) – Sarandë – Ksamil

Crossing the mountains from Korce to Gjirokastra, Albania

The version in Romanian can be found at Travesand muntii Albaniai de la Korçë la Gjirokastra

From the old town of Gjirokastra to the Ksamil Peninsula, Albania

The version in Romanian can be found at De la orasul vechi Gjirokastra la peninsula Ksamil

The Albanian coastline from Ksamil to Vlorë (7 days)
  • explored the archaeological site of Butrint and the Three Islands of Ksamil
  • sunbathing, writing, and relaxing day in Ksamil
  • road trip from Ksamil to Livadhi Beach, via Ksamil – Lukovë – Borsh – Porto Palermo – Himarë – Livadhi
  • explored Himarë’s old/abandoned castle; fish farm in Porto Palermo
  • road trip from Livadhi Beach to Drymades Beach, via Livadhi – Old Himarë – Jala Beach – Vuno – Gjipe Beach – Dhërmi – Palase Beach – Drymades Beach
  • walked through Dhërmi village
  • road trip from Drymades Beach to Vlorë, crossing Mount Çika and continue via Orikum – Vlorë

The Albanian coastline from Ksamil to Livadhi, Albania

The version in Romanian can be found at Coasta Albaneză Ksamil – Vlorë: de la Marea Ionică la Marea Adriatică (I)

The Albanian coast Livadhi – Vlorë, passing Dhermi, Albania

The version in Romanian can be found at Coasta Albaneză Ksamil – Vlorë: de la Marea Ionică la Marea Adriatică (II)

 From Vlorë to the Ottoman town of Berat (4 days)
  • road trip from Vlorë to Berat, via Vlorë – Fier – the archaeological site of Appolonia – Berat
  • explored Berat for two days (Berat Castle, Mangalen and Gorica old quaters)
  • road trip to Gradec and Osumi Canyons

From Vlorë to the Ottoman town of Berat, Albania

The version in Romanian can be found at De la Vlore la orasul otoman Berat

From Berat to Shkodër passing Durrës and Tirana (6 days)
  • road trip from Berat to Tirana, via Durrës
  • explored Tirana (Blloku Quarter and the communist city center)
  • dentist in Tirana; road trip from Tirana to Krujë, via Prezë
  • rakija and tobacco production at camping Tirana; road trip to Shkodër, via Krujë
  • explored Mesi Bridge and Kiri Canyons, nearby Shkodër
  • explored Shkodër (the castle and city center)

From Berat to Shkodër, passing Durrës and Tirana, Albania

The version in Romanian can be found at De la Berat la Shkoder prin Durres si Tirana

Hiking the Albanian Alps from Valbona to Theth (6 days)
Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 - Komani Lake Ferry and Valbona to Theth Trekking (4 days) - Legend: orange - car/furgon, brown - ferryboat, green - trekking

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Komani Lake Ferry and Valbona to Theth Trekking (4 days) – Legend: orange – car/furgon, brown – ferryboat, green – trekking

  • minibus to Komani Lake – Komani ferry – shared car from Fierza to Valbonë (in the Albanian Alps)
  • trekked in the Accursed Mountains (the Albanian Alps): from Valbonë to Theth, via Rrogam hamlet – Valbonë Pass (Qafa e Volbones) – Theth Gjelaj village
  • hiked to Grunas Waterfall and Canyon, near Fushe Theth (the main neighborhood); walked to Gjecaj Theth village and returned to Fushe Theth village
  • walked through Fushe Theth village; minibus trip from Theth to Shkodër (off road crossing the Albanian Alps)
  • sunbathing, swimming, and relaxing day in Shkodër
  • car service near Shkodër; left Albania and crossed the border with Kosovo at Vërmicë; went to Prizren
Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 - Valbona to Theth Trekking (1 day) - Legend: orange - car/furgon, green - trekking

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Valbona to Theth Trekking (1 day) – Legend: orange – car/furgon, green – trekking

Hiking the Albanian Alps – Valbona Theth, Albania

The version in Romanian can be found at Traversarea Alpilor Albanezi de la Valbona la Theth

 Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Kosovo (10 days)

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 - Kosovo

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Kosovo

10 Days in Kosovo – Prizren and around (3 days)
  • explored Prizren’s historic center for two days
  • road trip from Prizren to Prevalla mountain resort; short hike in Mali Sharr Mountains (at the Macedonian border)

10 Days in Kosovo – Prizren and around

10 Days in Kosovo – from Prizren to the Rugova Valley, passing Peja
  • road trip from Prizren to Peja, via Gjakova and Desan Monastery (still guarded by KFOR)
  • road trip along Rugova Valley & Gorges; short hike to Liqeni Madhe Lake
  • short hike through the mountain villages of Rugova Valley (Drelaj – Koshutan – Reke e Allages)

10 days in Kosovo – Peja and the Rugova Valley

10 Days in Kosovo – Prishtina and around (4 days)
  • road trip from Rugova Valley to Prishtina
  • explored Prishtina for two days
  • road trip from Prishtina to Kumanovo (Macedonia), with stops at Gračanica Monastery – the archaeological site of Ulpiana – Gadime Cave; crossed the Macedonian border near Skopje

10 days in Kosovo – the capital of Pristina

Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – return to Macedonia (one week)

  • stayed at a local family in Kumanovo for two days
  • stayed in Skopje for two days
  • went to Kratovo for three days and wrote about Etno House Shancheva
  • two days driving from Macedonia to Romania, crossing Bulgaria (via Kratovo – Sofia – Vidin – Calafat – Rucăr – Bran – Bușteni)

The return to Macedonia – Kumanovo, Skopje, and Kratovo

This is the summary of my two months trip to the Balkan Countries of Macedonia, Albania and Kosovo. Enjoy your reading and let me know your opinion about the Balkan Countries. Which is your favorite country? Why? Where would you go?

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24 Responses to “Balkan Countries Travel Planning 2017 – Macedonia, Albania, Kosovo”

  1. Natasha August 25, 2017 at 12:47 pm #

    Wow, this certainly sounds like an adventure. I love that you had your car with you. That makes thing so much easier and then you can really go at your own pace. Thanks for sharing your trip with us!

    • Iuliana August 26, 2017 at 11:43 am #

      Natasha, the plan for this trip was to go with my own car from Romania because it was pretty close to drive for me (800 km). It was a good decision indeed as I didn’t pay money for renting a car and I was very flexible. Not to mention that I didn’t have to carry backpack and laptop etc.

  2. Daphne August 29, 2017 at 10:53 pm #

    I never visisted the Balkan countries; Macedonia, Albania, and Kosovo.. This planning is really useful for me. Perhaps one day I can use it as an example to travel around these amazing countries. What country did you liked the most? And you said that you stayed at a local family in Kumanovo for two days. If I may ask, how did you met them or did you already knew them in advance?

    • Iuliana August 30, 2017 at 12:24 pm #

      Daphne, I am glad that you’re thinking to visit the Balkan countries. My planning reflects the way/style that I travel, at a very slow pace + maximum flexibility. I would be happy to hear if you used some ideas from my plan. I found the local family on Couchsurfing. I don’t use it always, especially when I’m tired and all I want is just to rest. But when you travel slowly and have plenty of time is a very good idea to stay with couchsurfing and spend time with them.

  3. Gri October 28, 2018 at 2:04 am #

    Hi Iuliana! This is Gri, from Argentina!
    I am planning a trip to the Balcans. As you, I want to cross from Ohrid to Korçë but I will travel alone and I will not rent a car. Do yu know if it is possible to cross easily with public transportation? And then from Korçë to Gjirokastra also in public transportation?
    Many thanks!!

    • Iuliana October 28, 2018 at 11:03 am #

      Hi Gri, I think you can easily cross by public transportation from Ohrid to Korce. However, as you read in my post, the road from Korce to Gjirokastra is almost deserted. I didn’t see any public transportation while I was driving on it. But once you are in Korce, it’s better to ask and I am sure they have a solution. Nothing is impossible!

  4. Parnashree Devi March 26, 2020 at 10:22 pm #

    I have never been to Balkan Countries and this post surely has convinced me to plan mine. Balkan Countries Travel Planning sounds quite exciting and I really liked the way you have written it. Including maps in the post is really helpful. I must refer this post while planning my big trip to those breathtaking Balkan Countries. Thank you for the details.

    • Iuliana March 29, 2020 at 11:15 am #

      Hope it will be useful for you. I know I have my style of planning my travels but if this can help someone, go for it.

  5. Joe Ankenbauer March 27, 2020 at 9:52 pm #

    Such an extensive planning list! I love it! I do something similar when traveling, I can’t go without it! Sign me up for Lake Ohrid and Corfu island, they’ve been on my bucket list!

    • Iuliana March 29, 2020 at 11:06 am #

      Unfortunately, when I got to Albania, I figured out I would have needed at least one week to explore Corfu and I was a bit keen to continue with my trip through the Balkans. So I skipped Corfu this time.

  6. Jane Dempster-Smith March 28, 2020 at 5:41 am #

    I have always wanted to visit Macedonia, Albania and Kosovo and was wondering what the best way was to achieve it. You have answered most of my questions. Having a car certainly gives you flexibility on where to travel to and what to do when you get there. Was your petrol costs high? Is petrol cheaper in these countries that other countries in Europe?

    • Iuliana March 29, 2020 at 11:08 am #

      No, I think petrol is the same as the rest of Eastern Europe. The price has dropped now since I took this trip a few years ago.

  7. Lisa March 28, 2020 at 11:06 am #

    I’ve not yet been to any of the Balkan countries, so this is a useful resource for me. I’d most like to see Lake Orhid in Macedonia and also some of these lesser known places in Albania. All these countries are on my list and I hope to see them one day.

    • Iuliana March 29, 2020 at 11:09 am #

      Let’s hope that things will go well in the next period.

  8. Agnes March 28, 2020 at 2:09 pm #

    What a great trip and a fantastic adventure! Your maps look impressive. I haven’t been to these countries yet but I would like to visit them with a motorhome. So I like your route and all the tips. I like.that you also sharing hiking trails because I love hiking. I hope to visit the Balkans soon.

    • Iuliana March 29, 2020 at 11:13 am #

      Yes, a motorhome is the best way to see them. You are flexible and totally independent.

  9. Clarice March 28, 2020 at 8:38 pm #

    Thank you for sharing this detailed post. We have been planning to visit the Balkan countries and this is really helpful. Appreciate the itinerary and the tips. Can’t wait to travel again after the Corona Virus crisis.

    • Iuliana March 29, 2020 at 11:10 am #

      Yes, I was also planning to continue my explorations in Serbia and Bulgaria, but now everything is on stand.

  10. Stephanie March 28, 2020 at 9:30 pm #

    I have not spent much time in the Balkans, and reading this post really makes me want to do so. I can’t wait to use this as a guide when we go because you definitely seem to be an expert! I think it’s great that you’re so resilient – having to put the trip off for a while initially. I would have been so bitter! Would Macedonia be a good place to visit with a toddler do you think?

    • Iuliana March 29, 2020 at 11:11 am #

      People in Macedonia are very hospitable, so I am sure you won’t have any problems with a toddler.

  11. Amrita March 30, 2020 at 10:05 am #

    Wow! This looks like quite an adventure. Crossing borders, hiking, driving and everything else. I was toying with the idea of visiting the Balkan countries this year. I dont know whethet it will happen this year or not, but I would definitely try to make it next year. Your itinerary will serve as a guide for my trip. This is quite comprehensive and detailed. Thankd for sharing it.

    • Iuliana March 30, 2020 at 12:03 pm #

      The only thing with my itinerary is that you need two months to complete it without running.

  12. daniel March 31, 2020 at 1:22 pm #

    Great post!! I guess Macedonia, Albania, and Kosove are Balkan’s least visited countries, even though it has so many things to offer with fewer tourists compared to other countries. I love the fact that many of these countries shares the border so, hopping around between these countries are relatively easy and convenient. Your trip sounds lovely and really practical, people traveling to these countries for the first time will find it really useful.

    • Iuliana April 1, 2020 at 2:33 pm #

      You can enter Kosovo from Macedonia and Albania, but not from Serbia (they are still having difficulties there).

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